Exploring the muti-dimensional characteristic artistic expression of jewellery function under the contemporary aesthetic background

: From the aesthetic point of view, the function of contemporary art jewellery is a muti-dimensional form of expression, which goes beyond the definition of traditional jewellery and is displayed through visual, auditory, tactile sense and other artistic forms. As an intuitive art symbol, the paper conveys the attitude of contemporary art jewellery from the aspects of emotion, attitude, national culture, etc., and expounds the manifestations of the diversified functional characteristics of contemporary art jewellery, aiming to explore the multi-dimensional manifestations of contemporary art jewellery under the aesthetic background, and explore the diversified material forms of art jewellery. It provides more theoretical reference for contemporary art jewellery design and injects new inspiration.


INTRODUCTION
The rapid development of the fashion industry provides an opportunity for jewellery art to get rid of previous prejudices.With the arrival of Z era, compared with the concept of luxury and value preservation, young consumers pay more attention to how to express their needs for personality and unique shape.The expression form of jewellery gradually deviates from the traditional concept and pays attention to aesthetics and innovation.Jewellery, as a carrier to convey the relationship between art and human body, is guided by the concept of creation and design thinking, transmits its value through visual media, and has the function of decorating the human body.From the perspective of contemporary aesthetics, art jewellery, as one of the more important species in the jewellery design field, pays more attention to the creation concept, art form, cultural connotation, unique sense of vision, diversified materials, etc. than traditional commercial jewelry, which pays more attention to the marketing value orientation, to reflect the cultural connotation, jewellery and emotional value of their art works.
The term 'aesthetic' comes from aesthetics.With the birth of aesthetic concept as a discipline name, the concept of 'aesthetic' also came into being [1].The elements of beauty have two aspects, the first refers to its content; The second is 'by which the content expresses its meaning and character' [2].Contemporary art jewellery emphasizes spiritual emotions.In the context of aesthetics, this paper divides the theme of artistic jewellery into two main themes: inner emotional, national cultural connotation and analyzes the concept of each theme in detail.Narrative emotion is one of the most prominent forms of expression of the narrative function of contemporary art jewellery.Emotion, as the inherent perception of human beings, is the most direct and specific expression of people's attitude and experience towards external things through language, with words as the carrier.
In the creation of art jewellery, text is not only a visual medium such as material, sound, installation and video, but also a symbol of art jewellery.It expresses personal emotions through visual effects, so as to convey the artist's attitude, emotion and self-perception.Selecting a certain material in an artistic work, combined with the visual effect displayed by its material properties, can guide the audience psychologically to understand the artist's psychological implications for the performance intent and cultural connotation of the work through the perception of aesthetic consciousness.Therefore, through the work, the artist, and the viewer, the experiencer can conduct dialogue and interaction.The analysis of the characteristics of various visual materials used in art works aims to provide a theoretical basis for redefining the material value of contemporary art jewellery.It is self-evident that artists combine creative themes, different materials, textures, mix and match colors, inspiring art and deeper concepts, including two themes of emotional experience, national culture, and touch and guide the audience and psychological experience through vision and feeling to explore the multi-dimensional functional forms of art jewellery.

2.
The artistic language of jewellery under the aesthetic background

Emotional interaction
Human beings are emotional animals, and emotion is the natural response of human beings.In emotional activities, their emotional changes are reflected through instinctive reactions.Emotional design uses some specific behaviors to stimulate the audience, induce the emotional response of the audience to produce emotional fluctuations, awaken and identify emotional changes, and finally generate specific cognition of the work, forming a unique perception and understanding of product positioning.Emotional design is produced based on psychological theories.Psychology is a science that studies people's psychological phenomena and the laws of human activities.Based on psychology, design psychology is a science that applies people's mental state, especially their psychological needs and uses, to design through consciousness [3].Emotion, as a noun in psychology, refers to people's attitude towards their surroundings, themselves and their behaviors.It is a special form of reaction to objective things, a psychological reaction of subjects to external stimuli, and their attitude and experience about whether objective things meet their needs [4].
As a language of communication, the function of contemporary jewellery goes far beyond the traditional concept of jewellery.Through the narrative nature of contemporary jewellery works, artists can feel the perception of inspiration, emotional interaction, creative significance and value expression.Through visual symbols, it can be presented through digital media or immersive interactive art to mobilize the subjective clarity of the audience and provide aesthetic feeling.The sense of distance between people and works of art is indented.The original intention of people-oriented design is to highlight emotional experience, so that the work and the viewer have a symbiotic relationship in spirit.Artist Tiffany Parbs aims to explore the relationship between her and the fashion public through her works, and observe how people use body language to convey their own body language to others through casual actions and interactions (as shown in Fig. 1).In the process of appreciating the works of art, art audiences will experience the artist's creation intention and bring their own cultural experience into the process, and they will also pre-construct the potential significance of the works of art [5]  Emotional interaction is an important part of the contemporary jewellery field.Emotional jewellery is guided by emotional elements and conveys emotional appeal to the maximum extent to the audience, so as to meet people's spiritual needs.But what form can be used to express the works and convey their feelings?The artist breaks through the original constraints of traditional design thinking, pays attention to the expression of the work itself, and injects emotional factors.Without limiting the expression form of the work, the artist emphasizes more on the behavior and emotional interaction between the work itself and the wearer, so that the wearer can feel the concept and fun of creation, and thus play the function and role of transmitting emotion.This form of work is mostly for the pursuit of spiritual feelings.The emotional design of contemporary jewellery gives jewellery a unique expression of life.Whether through touch or vision, the emotional transmission of each sense is layered and interrelated.Vision is the most obvious sense of human stimulation.Human visual system capture the image, the color matching and modeling proportion of artistic works.This system can capture the image information of external objects in the first time through human eyes.Then image information will be transmited to the brain to form a guiding effect and memory.For contemporary jewellery, visual capture is the material, shape, color and other objective information of the work.The expression of emotional transmission is also realized through material properties, texture and color combination.Emotion is a physiological reaction to external things.People realize the transmission of emotion through emotional expression, such as facial expression, language, body movements and other multi-sensory ways to convey others' emotional factors.Emotional transmission is a systematic design process.Emotional transmission allows the wearer to pay attention to the requirements of the artistic work itself from the perspective of instinct and sensory experience.Through the transmission of emotions in the design, the wearer can arouse relevant emotional factors, so as to achieve the resonance between human and design.Art jewellery can stimulate the generation and release of the wearer's emotions through the mutual transmission of the wearer's emotions to the viewer.The form, surface texture, appearance color matching and touch of the work can stimulate the wearer's emotional feedback generated during the experience of the work.In her works, the artist Rachel Darbourne takes the overconsumed plush toys as design elements.Through the design techniques of pulling and transforming, she expressed the plight of the children who were once cherished but now ignored and abandoned, and conveyed the author's regret (as shown in Fig. 2).Based on 40 days of self-dialogue, artist Xu Yunqing expressed the essence of life through structure and reorganization, conveyed the aesthetic feeling of fear to the audience, reflected the mood and strength of the creator, and conveyed the overall tension of the work with human nature as the starting point (as shown in Fig. 3).Nationalization is a culture that embodies regionalization and localization [7].As a very important part of traditional culture, national culture is deeply influenced by Chinese traditional aesthetic consciousness, traditional patterns and philosophical ideas in various art fields.In contemporary jewellery design, the connotation of national culture is mainly reflected in meaning, form of expression, design elements, materials and color matching.The national blood contains clear and victorious design inspiration, and the design form of integration of traditional and contemporary shows a strong national style and traditional culture in an intuitive or indirect form of expression.It is suggested to realize the adaptive development of contemporary jewellery aesthetics.Based on the perspective of traditional culture, contemporary jewellery combines modernity with tradition, skillfully integrates traditional culture with contemporary art, reappears traditional cultural thoughts and designs with unique aesthetic consciousness and infinite forms of expression, and embodies traditional national culture and philosophical culture with visual symbols.Furthermore, it connects traditional culture and contemporary culture, and reasonably reflect the national cultural characteristics of contemporary jewellery.
Nowadays, national culture is facing the impact of modernization, and cultural inheritance is facing a severe test.There are two ways to express the ethnic cultural connotation of contemporary jewellery.One is visually intuitive, which shows the ethnic culture in contemporary jewellery from traditional patterns, techniques, material selection and color matching.As a precious intangible cultural heritage after the integration of culture and art, traditional pattern is closely related to the development of social economy and culture, and its design presents a unique and profound sense of story.There are many kinds of traditional patterns, and different patterns represent different meanings and distinctive cultural symbols.In contemporary jewellery design, we can often see traditional patterns such as Xiangyun patterns, which imply auspiciousness, express auspiciousness, ruyi and yearning for a better life.The pattern of the swastika with the meaning of auspiciousness, longevity implies lasting and endless life.The scope of ethnic minority culture is very broad, and the culture owned by a single nationality requires us to deeply discuss.Totem is a unique existence in the ethnic minority culture and a cultural symbol owned by most nationalities.Its style is rich and representative.The cultural and ethnic characteristics of contemporary jewellery can be highlighted from the visual effect.For example, the butterfly totem of Miao nationality, known as the "God of the first ancestor of life" in the Miao family legend, and the frogman dance pattern of Zhuang nationality in Huashan Rock, etc., demonstrate the ethnic cultural connotation with new jewellery language and innovate the design of traditional elements.It reflects the national cultural connotation through the inspiration of the artist and the artistic conception of the work itself.The form of expression is relatively flexible and extensive.It is not limited to the shape of jewellery products, but can reflect the national culture through sound, device and digital media as design symbols.

Diverse Materials
As an important carrier of works, with the impact of social and economic development, people's aesthetic perception and consciousness are also relatively improved.In order to meet the needs of jewellery personality and appearance, personalized and unique comprehensive materials gradually stand out from traditional jewellery materials.As creative materials, in addition to the daily production of products, materials can also be applied to meet the spiritual needs of artistic creation, and express desire, thought, humanism and emotional needs through works.
Different from traditional jewellery materials, the comprehensive materials used in contemporary jewellery no longer judge works based on the value of the materials themselves.On the contrary, they take aesthetics and innovation as the theme, and explore the emotion, spiritual world and attitude expressed by the artist behind them through a higher level of diversified material combination.
Traditional jewellery materials are relatively simple, such as gold, silver, natural jade and other materials.The product types and styles designed are guided by market trends.However, the comprehensive materials used in contemporary jewellery are more flexible and have more abundant properties, which is incomparable to traditional jewellery.Artists will choose visual materials according to the theme and artistic conception, such as plastic resin, paper, fruits, photos, clay, wood, leather, even teeth, hair, animal and plant specimens, electronic components and other materials.In addition to these visual materials, contemporary artists will also develop organic materials in the form of experiments.For example, British Gosia rog creates unique works of art by using kombucha tea to make simulated leather, pulp, recycled materials, etc. according to different material characteristics and relevant processes.The value orientation of contemporary jewellery is no longer whether the material is valuable or not, no longer concerned about fashion trends, and is free from the constraints of form and system.Relying on the artistic language media such as video, sound and installation art, it becomes clearer and clearer to explore the meaning of the work itself through comprehensive materials.The core of humanistic spirit, formal innovation and aesthetic consciousness conveyed can satisfy the aesthetic experience of the viewer.This is also the biggest difference between traditional jewellery materials and contemporary jewellery materials.
The essence of beauty is a realm of freedom.Influenced by contemporary aesthetics, the application of jewelry materials in contemporary jewellery design is relatively diversified, and more and more attention is paid to emotional expression, the relationship between the body and the work.According to the creative themes of different artists, the application of visual integrated materials in contemporary jewellery design is divided into three parts: organic materials, such as wood, animal hair and fabric; One is processed materials.With the development of contemporary jewellery, the aesthetic perception of viewers and wearers is also improved.Influenced by aesthetic consciousness, artificial processed materials are gradually widely used in contemporary jewellery.The other type is innovative materials.For example, using light and shadow technology.The projection of works are reflected on the curtain, the change of light and shadow color, as well as audio, video and other forms of performance works, the audience through immersive interactive experience works, can also use 3D software make virtual interactive jewellery, through AR virtual wear.

Multidimensional Form
Contemporary jewellery is a reflection triggered by the research on the collision between people and art, body and works, works and culture.It inspires the viewer and wearer to reflect on social phenomena, perception of life and attitude towards life.The expression form of contemporary jewellery is no longer limited to physical products.The concept of contemporary jewellery is just like the demand relationship between installation art and environment.With the integration of the boundaries of various fields of contemporary art, the expression forms of contemporary jewellery have become very extensive.

Device representation
Installation art is an artistic work that exhibited in a specific exhibition space by means of disassembly, recombination, segmentation, combination and superposition, intended to express their emotional transmission and contemporary art concepts.The installation form of contemporary jewellery has fundamentally changed people's views on the decorative function of jewellery.It uses self-concept and emotional expression as the medium and way to express contemporary jewellery through vision, smell and touch.

Interactive expression form
Interaction refers to the interaction between people and people or between people and things.Interactive art refers to an art form in which the viewer participates in the process of art appreciation, and is an art form of expression jointly completed by the creator and the viewer.Interactive art is more active in the field of contemporary art, and it walks in many fields of art design.The interactive expression form of contemporary jewellery has strong artistic quality.It takes contemporary aesthetics as the background, breaks the boundaries between artists and audiences, and highlights the aesthetic appreciation of artists and participants on the works themselves.Participants join the works to experience the artist's emotional transmission subjectively and feel the meaning contained in the works.Building a bridge of communication between artists, wearers and audiences can more intuitively explores the relationship between artists and works, wearers and bodies, and viewers and works.Artist Lodie Kardouss is not only A contemporary jewellery designer, but also a performer.A jewellery Piece created in 2019 shows contemporary jewellery in the form of dance, combining the connection between jewellery and sports.She believes that awareness of the body, arrangement of materials, understanding of space and expression of knowledge coexist in jewellery and dance.In the interactive project "Chew your own Brooch" by Dutch artist Ted Noton, each participant sent an envelope containing chewing gum and talcum powder.Each participant wrapped the chewing gum in talcum powder and sent it back.Through the casting process, the chewing gum was made into brooches.Contemporary jewellery in the form of interaction will explore the relationship between creators, participants and the work itself.

4.CONCLUSIONS
With the development of society and economy, influenced by contemporary aesthetics, contemporary jewellery presents multi-dimensional functionality.Artists take works as the carrier, give full play to creativity, use different forms of expression from multiple angles, and explore emotion and culture.There are more possibilities for the future development of contemporary jewellery.